A Scotch whisky lover's guide to Edinburgh and beyond
The Charlie MacLean FoundationAuthor Charlie MacLean has made a life out of rating Scotch whisky. Here are his favourite ways to enjoy a dram, from cosy city pubs in Edinburgh to Victorian hotels in the Highlands.
Edinburgh, Scotland's cosmopolitan capital, is brimming with Unesco cache. Both its architecturally splendid medieval Old Town and Neoclassical New Town are World Heritage sites, while Edinburgh itself was named the world's first City of Literature in 2004.
Overseas, Edinburgh is equally as revered for its whisky culture. There are more than 385 pubs in the city where you can savour the peat-flavoured drink right in its country of origin.
"It's growing," says esteemed scotch writer Charles "Charlie" MacLean. "A lot of bars have expanded the range of whiskies and the knowledge on part of the bar staff in order to be able to advise customers. So Edinburgh has become a hub."
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Glasgow-born journalist and whisky expert Charlie MacLean has lived in Edinburgh since 1976. He is the founding editor of Whisky Magazine and his Glenfiddich Award-winning book Malt Whisky (1997) is considered an authority on the topic. In 2021, he was appointed an MBE in the Queen's Birthday Honours list for his services to Scotch whisky.
For MacLean, the enduring global appeal of Scotch whisky owes much to "fashion – after the Second World War, it was the drink of the free world", particularly in dolce vita-era Italy, where it was "introduced by the GIs and promoted by Hollywood. But secondly, Scotch scores on its deep history and its craft. If you want to go beyond simply enjoyment, whisky rewards analysis, and I think that's become part of the appeal. It is an acquired taste. It's not a child's drink. If you get the taste of it, it's hugely rewarding."
But for all the historic and up-and-coming pubs in Edinburgh, there are glorious Scotch whisky experiences further afield in Scotland's five famed whisky regions, like Speyside in the Scottish Highlands and the dramatically beautiful island of Islay. "The Scottish whisky industry is developing really sophisticated, really well-equipped touristic facilities, visitor centres and restaurants," says MacLean.
Historic though it may be, Edinburgh's whisky culture is anything but stale. Here are MacLean's top Scotch whisky experiences – in Edinburgh and beyond.
Diageo1. Best for whisky newbies: Johnnie Walker Princes Street
"We have an awful lot of international tourists," says MacLean. "They love whisky, and the city has responded to that with whisky bars and places like the Johnnie Walker Centre."
Insider tip:
Confessions of a whisky expert: "There's no best whisky," says MacLean. "The old Scots saying was, 'There's no best whisky; there's good whisky and better whisky'."
For MacLean, it's the atmosphere that makes the difference. "It's the situation and the company that make the best whisky in the world," he says – reminiscing about his favourite-ever whisky experience, drinking with dear friends while ice fishing on the River Tweed on the English-Scottish border. "It was bitterly cold and it was rubbish whisky. But in the circumstances, it was ambrosia. The best whisky in the world".
The mammoth eight-storey Johnnie Walker Princes Street, housed in the former Houses of Fraser department store, offers an immersive, multi-faceted whisky experience. "[It's] an introduction to Scotch whisky that has done very, very well," says MacLean. "The eight floors are huge!"
Johnnie Walker Princes Street offers a variety of tutored tasting tours where visitors can blend bespoke cocktails and pair artisanal chocolate truffles with luxury whiskies, all while learning about the humble Scottish grocer whose homegrown single malt spawned the best-selling whisky brand in the world. Head to the 1820 Rooftop Bar for beautiful views of the imposing medieval masterpiece Edinburgh Castle or to the Explorers Bothy's Bar where whiskies are paired with small plates crafted by Michelin-starred chefs. "Very slick and professional, for novices and connoisseurs," says MacLean.
Website: https://www.johnniewalker.com/en-us
Address: 145 Princes St, Edinburgh EH2 4BL
Phone: +44 (0)1313 769 494
Instagram: @johnniewalker
Courtesy of Canny Man's2. Most knowledgeable bartenders: Canny Man's
MacLean has made a life of rating whisky, but humbly demurs at the epithet expert. "It was purely by luck that I got into [it]," says the former ghost writer, now working on his 20th book on whisky. "It's like Alice in Wonderland; you go through one door and then there are more doors. On the production [and] historical side, I find it absolutely fascinating."
For an Alice in Wonderland Scotch experience, MacLean suggests: "Go to a bar with a knowledgeable bartender. Go with a couple of friends, so there's three of you. Say to the bartender, 'Give us three whiskies in nosing glasses.' And say, 'Right, we liked that number three; give us three more like that." You note and taste. What you're doing is developing the knowledge that they're not all the same."
While MacLean says there are many knowledgeable bartenders in Edinburgh, his first stop is Canny Man's, a historic public house helmed by Iain Kerr.
"His family have owned this idiosyncratic traditional bar since 1871," says MacLean. "It is highly atmospheric, crowded with memorabilia – every one of which has a story, many of them donated to settle bar bills!"
The antique- and trinket-filled pub is found in Edinburgh's upscale, tree-lined Morningside neighbourhood. Though most famous for its Bloody Mary, Canny Man's holds regular Scotch tastings and names a "New Malt of the Month".
"It offers a wide range of malts (around 300) and its own house blend," adds MacLean.
Website: https://www.cannymans.co.uk/
Address: 237 Morningside Rd, Morningside, Edinburgh EH10 4QU, United Kingdom
Phone: +44 (0)1314 471 484
Instagram: @thecannymans
George Rabe3. Best cosy small bar: Kay's Bar
For MacLean, there are outdoor whiskies and indoor whiskies: "If you're outdoors, I would go for an Islay whisky like Lagavulin; elemental, smoky whiskies. Then for the evening, go for more sherry-style whiskies, like Glendalough or Glenfarclas."
Is it whiskey or whisky?
Apart from an errant 'e', the difference between whiskey and whisky is largely its place of origin. Whiskey refers to grain spirits distilled in Ireland and the US, while whisky is distilled in Scotland, Canada and Japan. Scotch whisky is whisky produced in Scotland.
For a cosy evening tipple, MacLean recommends Kay’s Bar, a snug pub in Edinburgh's New Town. "[It's got] a real fire, a companionable atmosphere and a large selection of whiskies and beers," he says of the Victorian-era pub with red-painted walls and red velvet seating. "Kay’s was actually established [as a wine and spirit merchant] in the 18th Century. It's a lovely, cosy small bar."
Tiny Kay's accommodates one long bench with a smattering of tables around it, making it easy to get acquainted with your neighbour.
Website: https://www.kaysbar.uk/
Address: 39 Jamaica St, Edinburgh EH3 6HF
Phone:+44 (0)1312 251 858
Instagram: @kaysbaredinburgh
Ladislav Piljar4. Best cocktails: Bramble
"I must mention Bramble," says MacLean emphatically. "Tiny, tiny cocktail bar in a tiny basement. But they've won global prizes for their cocktails and knowledge of spirits."
Bramble is found in a row of stately townhouses on Queen Street; distinguishable only by a tiny sign on an iron fence. The humble, dimly lit space began serving its uniquely inventive cocktails in 2006 – cracking the 50 Best Bars in the World in 2009 and remaining on the list for five years – and has consistently racked up prizes ever since.
"They do some ready-made cocktails with whiskies," notes MacLean. These change regularly but current standouts include the "Triple Corn" (pisco, corn whisky, corn liqueur, sweetcorn, coriander and lime) and the "Shadowman" (made from whisky, Latvian kummel liqueur, chamomile, rosemary and lemon). "The guys behind that are among the leading cocktail makers in the world," says MacLean.
Bramble welcomes nationally acclaimed DJs on Friday and Saturday nights.
Website: https://www.bramblebar.co.uk/
Address: 16A Queen St, Edinburgh EH2 1JE, United Kingdom
Phone: +44 (0)1312 266 343
Instagram: @bramble_bar
The Craigellachie Hotel5. Best outside Edinburgh: Craigellachie Hotel, Highlander Inn, The Fiddlers and Dornoch Castle Hotel
Though Edinburgh has an excellent whisky scene, MacLean recommends visitors also explore Scotland's five whisky regions – Speyside, Islay, Campbelltown, Highland and Lowland. Some of MacLean's favourite whisky experiences are found in Speyside in the ruggedly beautiful Scottish Highlands, home to excellent salmon fishing and the country's densest concentration of Scotch distilleries.
Scotch-loving visitors can follow Speyside's Malt Whisky Trail, tracing a string of prestige and historic distilleries. Or they can find themselves in the village of Aberlour at MacLean's top pick, the Craigellachie Hotel. "Craigellachie Hotel is a pilgrimage destination for whisky lovers, with a vast collection of malts and very knowledgeable bar staff," says MacLean. "It also has a cheerful informal bar [and restaurant], The Copper Dog, and the Quaich Bar [which] has an amazing stock of whisky." Craigellachie Hotel is also home to the early 18th-Century Spey Inn pub; the oldest drover's inn in Scotland.
Just a few paces away from the hotel is MacLean's next pick; the Highlander Inn. "It boasts a huge selection of Scotch malts and also has the largest collection of Japanese whisky in the UK."
Venturing further 115km further west to the scenic Loch Ness, MacLean also recommends the award-winning The Fiddlers Highland Restaurant in the lakeside village of Drumnadrochit. "[It] has been owned by the Beach family since 1996. As well as having a restaurant featuring Highland dishes, it has more than 500 whiskies in stock."
Continuing north to the seaside resort town of Dornoch, MacLean likes to stop at the family-owned Dornoch Castle Hotel, facing the imposing 12th-Century Dornoch Castle. "[The pub] offers a number of very rare old whiskies at generous prices. It also has a micro distillery on site. A must for anyone travelling in the north of Scotland."
Website: https://craigellachiehotel.com/
Address: Victoria St, Speyside Way, Craigellachie, Aberlour AB38 9SR
Phone:+44 (0)1340 881 204
Instagram: @thecraigellachie
Alamy6. Best splurge: The Fife Arms in Braemar
"How much do you want to spend?" quips MacLean. "If you're in Edinburgh [and want to splurge], the Balmoral Hotel has very well-informed staff and a nice whisky bar. But the Fife Arms is unbelievable. Costly, but glorious!"
The Fife Arms hotel is located in Braemar, a bustling village in Cairngorms National Park in the Scottish Highlands; a little more than a two-hour drive north from Edinburgh and 15 minutes from Balmoral Castle, the Scottish home of the Royal Family.
"It’s a small hotel, a very, very luxurious hotel," says MacLean. " It's absolutely top notch. The Victorian building has been tastefully and appropriately restored – no expense spared! The Swiss owners are among the world’s leading art collectors and every room, public and private, is embellished with artworks, more than 14,000 at the last count; some by very famous artists and including private commissions."
MacLean also praises the hotel's amenities: "The staff are impeccable; the food superb – [the restaurant has] two Michelin stars." And when it's time to finally settle in for a dram, visitors can lounge at Bertie's Whisky Bar, with its moody wood-panelled walls and rich red velvet armchairs: "Named for King Edward VII, bon viveur and gourmand. But [it's] not a traditional bar; more like a whisky library where the well-informed bar staff/'librarians' encourage guests to explore flavours."
"A truly exceptional place," says MacLean. "The best that Scotland offers – at the moment!"
Website: https://thefifearms.com/
Address: Mar Rd, Braemar, Ballater AB35 5YN
Phone: +44 (0)1339 720 200
Instagram: @thefifearms
BBC Travel's The SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world, as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers.
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